Asia for Visitors

Chinatown

Chinatown

The shophouses of Melaka
Shophouses along Jonker Street, the heart of Melaka's Chinatown.

Across the river from the old Dutch Town Square is Melaka's Chinatown district. Although a few buildings date from the Dutch era, many of the most decorative shophouses date from the nineteenth century. The most interesting parts are along the three roads running away from the river. The extremely narrow Tun Tan Cheng Lok (or Heerin Street) was once called 'Millionaires Row' for its many mansions built by Straits Chinese who became wealthy on the rubber trade. The small frontages are deceptive, as the houses can be quite deep, with many courtyards.

Map of Chinatown
Mouse over the icons for the name of the place, click to see details.

Parallel to Tun Tan Chenk Lok is Hang Jebat Street, still commonly known as Jonkers Street. The street is famous for its 'antique' shops. They can be good for a browse, but don't expect to find any bargains.

Tucked away along Jonkers Street is the mausoleum of Hang Kasturi, one of the 'knights' who served Melaka's sultan. Hang Kasturi was supposed to be an expert in 'silat', the Malay martial arts.

Branching off Jonkers Street to run parallel to it is Tokong Street, which the Malaysian tourist literature likes to refer to as 'the Street of Harmony' due to its collection of Chinese temples, a Mosque and a Hindu temple. Cheng Hoon Teng is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia; just down the street is the Kampung Kling Mosque; and less than a block down the street is the Sri Poyyatha Venayagar Moorthi Temple, one of the first Hindu temples built in Malaysia. The temple was built in 1781.

In this section

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple

Photos of the Cheng Hoon Teng temple. Click on any of the thumbnails to see the full size image. Front altars Roof Decoration Main Hall Opera stage At more than 350 years old, Cheng Hoon Teng temple is the oldest in Malaysia. The temple was founded in 1646 by Li Kup, who fled China when the Manchus ended the Ming dynasty. Most of the materials used in the temple's construction were bought from China.

Kampong

Restored Kampong Houses Next to the compound enclosing the stage of the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple is the entry to a small alley. At the mouth of the alley is a newly restored (in 2010) traditional Malay house. Follow the alley for a little way, and it will turn into a whole row of restored houses. At the end of the row is a small graveyard containing the graves of some Sumatran warriors who helped defend Melaka in its infancy.

Kampung Kling Mosque

Photos of the Kampung Kling Mosque. Click on any of the thumbnails to see the full size image. Exterior Prayer Hall Fountain A short distance down the street from Cheng Hoon Teng Temple in Melaka's Chinatown is the curious Kampung Kling Mosque. Built in a mish-mash of styles in 1748, the mosque is one of Malaysia's oldest. With its Victorian fixtures, a pagoda styled minaret and many other features it's one of Malaysia's oddest mosques as well.

Shophouses

To a large extent, the attraction of Melaka's Chinatown is the architectural fabric of the area itself. Like Penang and Singapore, the traditional shophouse evolved from a utilitarian commercial structure into sometimes ornate residential terrace houses. Chinese elements blended with classical European decorations, so in one building you can see Chinese dragons prancing along a frieze underneath Palladian windows. In Melaka you also see a lot of Malay touches as well, such as wooden screens - often used in place of walls to facilitate air circulation - carved with Islamic-inspired themes.

Tomb of Hang Kasturi

The Tomb of Hang Kasturi Tucked away along Jonkers Street is the mausoleum of Hang Kasturi, one of the 'knights' who served Melaka's sultan. Hang Kasturi was supposed to be an expert in 'silat', the Malay martial arts. Hang Kasturi was one of five 'brothers' (they weren't related, but more like 'brothers-in-arms') who played an important role in the early days of the Sultanate, around 1456 to 1477. The most important, and revered, of these five is Hang Tuah, who according to legend killed Hang Kasturi when the sultan got the (mistaken) idea that Hang Tuah had had his way with the maidens of the palace and sent Hang Kasturi to kill Hang Tuah.