Laos
After two decades of isolation following the Vietnam war, Laos began to open up to the outside world late in the last century. For centuries, although ruled by its own kings, this mountainous land formed a sort of buffer between more the powerful kingdoms of China, Vietnam, Cambodia and Siam.
Now this landlocked nation is open to tourism, although this openness is on its own terms. Development of large scale facilities for visitors has proceeded at a very slow pace. This means Laos is still relatively unspoiled by mass tourism.
If you visit Laos, be prepared to slow down and enjoy a more relaxed pace than you might be used to. While you can make a whirlwind tour of the entire country, its better to take your time and spend at least three or four days in each place. For ideas on where to go and what to see, go to the orientation page.
In this section
Small landlocked Laos is bordered by China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Burma. The capital Vientiane is just across the Mekong from the Thai border. The north is mostly limestone mountains cut through by many rivers, the largest of which is the mighty Mekong. The country's royal city of Luang Prabang is roughly in the center of the north. Roughly in between and to the east is Phonsavan, where you'll find the extensive Plain of Jars.
Most people blow through the small village of Champasak on their way to see Vat Phou. There isn't much to the place, which is spread out along the Mekong River, but it does have its charms. There are a few nice hotels, guesthouses and restaurants around the town, which is sprinkled with some interesting historic architecture. If you're looking for a place that offers a more laid-back relaxing atmosphere, you might be wise to spend more time in Champasak and less time in Pakse.
Elegant colonial style buildings along Luang Prabang's Mekong waterfront. Sited on a narrow strip of land formed where the Khan River flows into the Mekong (see map), high up in the mountains of northern Laos, is the old royal capital of Luang Prabang - or Louang Phabang, depending on how you choose to translate the Lao. The small town was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1995, meaning that the historic old district will be maintained as it is, with no new buildings built taller than the existing two story structures.
One of the few historic buildings of Pakse Pakse is the main travel hub for the far south of Laos. Even if your final destination is Champasak or the 4,000 Islands, chances are getting there will involve passing through, if not staying the night in, Pakse. There's not a lot to see in Pakse itself, but it does make a good base for seeing several of the key sights of the area, such as Vat Phu in Champasak and the Bolaven Plateau.
The little town of Tha Kaek, right across the Mekong River from Nakhon Phanom in Thailand was once an important trading center back in the French Colonial days. Now it's little more than a sleepy backwater, but it still may be worth a visit.
Old shop-houses that need restoration During the French colonial period, Tha Kaek was an important city, both for trade along the Mekong as well as a defensive outpost on the front lines with the Siamese, who weren't too happy giving up 'their' territory.
Laos' laid back capital has been described as looking more like a collection of villages than a big capital city. It is growing, but still has a slower pace than the cities of its neighbor to the south. It is still a small city, with not a lot of major sights. You can see most of what “must” be seen in less than a day. However, there's an atmosphere in Vientiane that appeals to many, and any trip to the city should last for a few days at least, to give you time to unwind and relax.