In amongst the craggy valleys halfway up the central mountains is Bali's "cultural capital" of Ubud. Although heavily developed as a tourist destination, Ubud retains a more laid-back atmosphere that gives it a less frenetic pace than the beach resorts to the south.
Ubud Area Map
Ubud is a sprawling collection of what were once separate villages. Its center is the intersection of two main roads: Monkey Forest Road and Jalan Raya. At this intersection, you'll find the former palace of the rulers of Ubud, the pavilion where Barong dances are performed, and the art market.
Monkey Forest Road runs south to, what else, the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. As its name implies, the forest is home to a troop of monkeys just waiting for your handouts. The forest is also home to a temple of the dead.
Jalan Raya runs east to west. West of Ubud's center, the road is lined with artist's galleries. Some of these, such as Symon's "Art Zoo," can be quite outrageous and worth a visit even if you have only a passing interest in art.
Ubud makes an excellent base with accommodations of every description for exploring the Balinese countryside and all it has to offer. Many important sights such as Goa Gajah and Pura Samuan Tiga are just a short drive from Ubud. The city is also the best place to catch one of the many excellent rafting trips available on the area's mountain streams.
If you're spending quite a bit of time in Ubud and would like to pick up some skills, drop by Pondok Pekek, a library and community learning center off the walkway on the west side of the football field. Pondok Pekak has a book store (donations of used books appreciated), library, children's library, even board and also offers classes in traditional arts such as music, food preparation, flower arranging, and much more.
While many like to just completely relax while in Ubud, there are a number of "adventures" to sample if you're so inclined. My favorite activity by far is the white-water rafting down the Agung River just a short drive from town. For this, I highly recommend Sobek, although there are other operators.
Biking / Cycling Tours Mountain biking and cycling seem to be the latest 'in' thing around Bali in general, and around Ubud in particular.
In the center of Ubud, where Monkey Forest Road meets Jalan Raya, is Ubud's extensive Art Market, known locally as Pasar Seni. This market is actually Ubud's main market. A bit of the old market for fresh produce can still be seen off to one side.
A typical stall selling paintings in the center of the Art Market The market sells a wide range of clothing, fabrics, masks and souvenirs.
The front of the artist Symon's "Art Zoo" gallery. Several art galleries are spread all over Ubud. The art market in the center of town sells mass produced paintings and souvenirs, but there are also 'serious' galleries selling the works of established artists.
Ubud has always been known as a village of painters. In the 1930s, with the encouragement of the local royal family, foreign artists and intellectuals were attracted to this bit of the 'real' Bali, giving the town an international reputation.
Not far from the central Bali town of Ubud is Goa Gajah, popularly known as the Elephant Cave. The cave, which is carved into a cliff face, probably dates back to at least the eleventh century. You can't see the cave from the road, but you'll know you're there when you spot the tour buses and souvenir stalls.
From the parking lot you descend a curving trail cut into the cliff face, and the cave is slowly revealed.
The pool at the Payangang Hideway near Ubud Ubud features a wide variety of accommodations in all price ranges. The only thing lacking is the huge hotels of the seaside. Most of the hotels in Ubud are less than 100 rooms. One aspect to think about carefully is location. Several resorts are located in the country-side around Ubud, rather than in the town itself. The scenery and privacy is generally superb, but getting into the city for shopping or dining is something you'll have to schedule through the hotel, since there aren't any taxis in Ubud.
At the end of Monkey Forest Road is the Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana, or Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. True to its name, the sanctuary is home to three troupes of long-tailed Balinese Macaques, totaling about 200 monkeys. These forest denizens are always open to handouts of food from visitors, although it is far safer to avoid feeding them, as they can become quite aggressive once they know you have food.
As the cultural heart of Bali, it's only fitting that the city is home to several museums that collect and display the rich history of Balinese arts. There are four main museums around town. Depending on where you're staying, these are within easy walking distance. All except the ARMA museum are on Ubud Raya street.
Detail of work by Ida Bagus Nyoman Rai Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) The ARMA museum, while displaying the work of many traditional Balinese artists, also has a very interesting modern collection, and also puts on traditional dance shows as well.
Like many tourist areas around the world, restaurants can come and go with the seasons. Even good and highly regarded restaurants can lose their leases, or have their chefs retire. The list below displays some of the many places we've tried in the Ubud areas. Entries are dated according to last visit. For more ideas, check out Bali Eats.
Pund-pundi Indonesian / International - This pleasant little open air restaurant overlooks a large rice field on the edge of town on Jalan Pengosekan.
Ubud may, on first impression, seem like a heavily built up tourist town, but it's surprising how quickly and easily you can find yourself in a purely pastoral setting surrounded by rice paddies. You don't even have to find transportation to do it, as there are several places around town where a simple turn off a busy street will take you into a different world.
If you're in the mood, there are some paths that will take you on a walk of two or three kilometers through the countryside.
Ubud is probably the best place for shopping on Bali. Traditional art and handicrafts are available in abundance, without too much of the junk that clutters up the beach resorts. Things to look for include paintings, masks, batik cloth and clothing, and jewelry. For cheap souvenirs, the Art Market is the place to start. Better quality items can be found in the many small shops lining Monkey Forest, Dewi Sita and Raya Roads, as well as the many art galleries around town.
