Lovina
Far away from the crowds of the southern Bali beaches, on the north side of the island, is the relatively small and undeveloped Lovina beach. Unlike the immensely popular southwest facing beaches around Kuta, there's no pounding surf at Lovina. The sea is extremely calm all the time. Temperatures are also generally warmer than in the south, while the climate is drier.
Although the beach at Lovina is often described as 'black' sand, it's more a dark gray, exactly the color you'd expect from a beach made mostly of volcanic basalt, ground up by the forces of nature. The shore gently curves away from the modern Dolphin sculpture that marks the center of Lovina.
Lovina was well on its way to becoming the next big beach resort, with lots of developments planned, or even under way. But then the 2002 bombings put Bali's tourism business into a tailspin, and Lovina was so remote and unknown that it suffered the most.
Now, it almost seems like it may have been a blessing in disguise. Lovina has been 'saved' from the over-development that has plagued the southern beaches. You won't be harassed as you walk down the street by people offering transports, t-shirts, or anything else. Sure, there are guys around the beach selling seashells, beads, etc. but they are nothing compared to hoards of vendors that descend on you in Kuta.
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Perhaps the main reason that Lovina's development remains stalled is the relative difficulty getting there. From the island's only airport, it's a two to three hour drive to Lovina up across the mountains at the center of the island. It's not entirely unpleasant, but after a long journey from Europe or North America, it can be a bit daunting.
The hotel owners in Lovina aren't stupid, and realize that this is their biggest weakness, so many medium and high end hotels include free transfers in their room rates.
Although relatively remote from the 'scene' in Southern Bali, or perhaps because of it, Lovina has a surprising number of gay friendly places. These include, so I'm told, more than one clothing-optional resort. Refer to the resources below for current information.
Gay Bali Resources Utopia The best place for up-to-date travel information for gays and lesbians about Indonesia as a whole, and Bali in particular. Gay-Friendly Bali Accommodations Unseen Bali There are a number of gay-friendly, and even some gay-only, hotels, guest houses and other accommodations on Bali.
Along the narrow winding road from Lake Bratan down to Singaraja is the village of Gitgit, where you can stop and see some spectacular waterfalls. While there is a very nice scenery on Bali, Gitgit is one of the few purely natural spectacles on offer, and I think perhaps the most beautiful.
Overall view of three tiers of the falls There are three or four places to stop and see the falls along the road through the village.
As you travel on the main road from southern Bali to the north shore, the road rises gently though rice terraces and cocoa plantations. Before you know it, you're passing through Bedugul, with its vistas of the entire southern coast, and then up over the walls of an ancient crater. A short descent brings you to the village of Candi Kuching on the shores of Lake Bratan, one of three lakes that have formed in the crater.
