Cambodia's capital retains much of its former colonial charm, with old houses along
tree-lined boulevards. Although many people simply stop off in Phnom Penh on their way to
Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, or even bypass it entirely
for a direct flight to Angkor, to do so is to miss out on something special.
Most of Phnom Penh's major sights are along the pleasant Tonle Riverside.
In a large traffic circle north of the city center is
Wat Phnom, which sits on a hill that gave the city its
name. The temple had its beginnings in the fourteenth century, but has been rebuilt so
many times that nothing remains of the original shrine. At the center of the city near
the river is the Royal Palace, which also holds the
magnificent Silver Pagoda. Next to the
Royal Palace is the beautiful National Museum.
A bit south of the Palace is the Independence Monument.
In a large traffic circle at the north end of Norodom Boulevard is the temple hill that gave Phnom Penh its name. Legend has it that around 1372 a wealthy widow known as 'grandmother' Penh discovered five Buddha statues in the hollow trunk of a tree washed up on the banks of the river. She created a small sanctuary for the images on a mound near her home. The hill became known as Phnom Penh, literally, Penh's hill.
The Independence Monument The Independence Monument sits in a traffic circle which sort of marks the south end of “downtown” Phnom Penh. It was built in 1958 to commemorate the 1953 independence from the French. At night the tower is brightly lit with red, white and blue floodlights.
One of the more distinctive things about Phnom Penh is its large array of historic buildings. There are many old villas and government buildings from the colonial era, as well as many modernist structures from the period just after Cambodia's 1953 independence. Phnom Penh escaped most of the madness of the early 1990s, which saw most of the historic buildings of other Southeast Asian capitals torn down and replaced by featureless high rise office buildings.
The Phnom Penh National Museum There aren't many museums in Phnom Penh, but there are definitely two worth mentioning:
National Museum The National Museum is housed in an elegant Khmer styled building immediately north of the Royal Palace walls. Toul Sleng Genocide Museum This former high school was the site of the Khmer Rouge's notorious prison S-21, where more than 13,000 people were killed for being 'educated'. It is now a museum with some rather nightmare-inspiring displays.
The small ridge of hills called Phnom Oudong (also commonly spelled Udong) rises out of the vast plain bordering the Tonle River about 40 kilometers north of Phnom Penh. The high ground is a natural place for settlement, and by around the seventh century there was a well-established city here. A stone temple was built here around the thirteenth century.
In 1618 the capital was moved here from nearby Lovek (of which almost nothing remains).
Phnom Penh's Royal Palace sits facing the river on Sothearos Boulevard. The palace itself is only about 100 years old, although the site has been used by Khmer royalty going back to the early fifteenth century.
Map of the Royal Palace Click on the map for more information. As you approach the palace, the most notable feature on the outside is the large open pavilion built onto the outer wall.
The most practical way to get to Phnom Penh is by air. If you're starting your Cambodia trip in Seam Ream, and you have time, you can travel down the great inland lake Tonle Sap to get to the capital. You can also travel overland, although roads are not always smooth. There is also a train, of sorts, from the Thai border at Battambang.
Airlines Serving Phnom Penh Phnom Penh's small Pochentong International Airport is only a eight kilometers from town.
Phnom Penh is still a rather small city, especially by Asian standards. There are - as yet - few high-rise buildings, which is one of its charms. There are many small and medium sized hotels, especially budget accommodations. I've stayed at many of them over the years, and you can find all my hotel reviews here. Those looking for a bit of history may want to consider a night or two at the Hotel Le Royal, which was originally opened in 1929.
Thanks no doubt to the long UN presence in Cambodia, Phnom Penh has an amazing array of restaurants offering just about every taste you can imagine. Standards are generally more than acceptable, so you can hardly go wrong picking out just any place that's convenient. The biggest concentration of restaurants is along the river around the Royal Palace. Just keep in mind that the choicest locations with a view are going to be the most expensive.
Visas Most westerners will require a visa to visit Cambodia. You can obtain one in advance or on arrival by air at Phnom Penh or Seam Reap. More... Currency The currency of Cambodia is the Riel, although US Dollars can be used for most transactions. More... Electricity Electrical current in Cambodia is 220 volts, 50 cycles. Electrical sockets take two flat prongs. More... Internet Access Internet access in Cambodia is generally rather slow and sporadic, but it is readily available in Phnom Penh.
The city was practically emptied out by the Khmer Rouge and left to rot. There's a mad scramble to tart up the place, but pot-holed or unpaved streets are still quite common. The tree-lined avenues and Tonle riverside make Phnom Penh quite a pleasant place to stroll around in, and there are plenty of shops, stalls and a few attractions to hold your attention.
Legend has it that Phnom Penh was founded in 1372.
