The Tomb of Khåi Ðinh

Colonial Influences

If the tomb of Tu Duc is "the sublime" then the tomb of Khai Dinh is the ridiculous. Unlike many of the other tombs, this one is built into the side of a hill (yes, it's a tomb with a view), and is, essentially, all of one piece. It's more European that the other tombs, having been built towards the end of the Nguyen period when the French were beginning to dominate the country. Parts of this concrete construction resemble a finely carved sugar confection.

Detail of the mosaic decorations covering the interior Detail of the mosaic decorations covering the interior

Still, there are elements similar to the other tombs. There is the sequence of three courtyards, here separated by stairs instead of grand avenues. In the middle courtyard is a pavilion containing a stele like the other tombs. The columns supporting this pavilion's roof are decorated with carved dragons sporting glass eyes. It's a bit over the top, in my opinion.

Googly eyes of the dragons wrapped around the columns of the stele pavilion Googly eyes of the dragons wrapped around the columns of the stele pavilion

Of course, "understated" is not a term you would use at all in regards to this structure. Up some more stairs from the stele is the main building. Outside is all white carved stone, while inside every inch of wall is covered with three-dimensional murals made out of colorful bits of broken pottery. The outer chamber depicts scenes of the seasons and other designs. It's clever, if not exactly my idea of beauty.

The view from the tomb The view from the tomb

The real gaudiness is reserved for the inner chamber. Here, a gilt life-size statue of Khai Dinh sits enthroned under a canopy also decorated with bits of broken porcelain while the ceiling is a painted sky full of dragons.

Many guidebooks are very derogatory about this tomb. Granted, it's not all to my taste, it's rather kitsch, but is not completely unsuccessful. And the view from the top of the stairs is definitely one which fits the eternal tastes of an emperor, even in the rain.

As with the other tombs, you need to pay an entrance fee of 55,000 Dong (
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-55,000.00 USD).